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12 must-have ingredients for homemade beauty products

vintage beauty ad 220x300 12 must have ingredients for homemade beauty productsWant to try making your own beauty products, but don’t know what you need?

Just like stocking your kitchen pantry with staples, there are some basic beauty ingredients you can keep on hand to make most recipes.  And much like stocking your kitchen, there is a bigger up-front cost but then you can make lots of products throughout the year.  Most of these ingredients are really inexpensive though – the big investment is the essential oils, but those last for ages.

  1. Rich body oil – A deeply moisturizing oil for body products, like olive or avocado oil.  Or if you want a slightly lighter oil, try sunflower.
  2. Lighter face oil – A lighter oil for facial products, like grapeseed (the lightest, good for oily skin), apricot or almond.
  3. Coconut Oil – semi-solid oil with amazing scent, often used in creams and lotions
  4. Beeswax – used to thicken creams, balms and ointments
  5. Cocoa Butter – also used as a solid oil to thicken products
  6. Emulsifying Wax – important if you’ll make a lot of creams, this helps them blend more smoothly.
  7. Baking Soda (Sodium Bicarbonate) – Useful for so many things, you probably have this on hand already
  8. Essential Oils – your favorites.  I suggest starting with lavender, peppermint and eucalyptus if you only buy a few.
  9. Vitamin E Capsules – the kind with liquid inside, used as a preservative in products.
  10. Rosewater or Orange Flower Water – floral waters used in toners, astringents, creams, lotions and perfumes
  11. Cider Vinegar – can be used to make toner, astringent, hair rinses etc.
  12. Strong, cheap vodka – used to make perfumes or tinctures which can be added to your products

You can buy everything in your local grocery store or pharmacy, except maybe the beeswax, cocoa butter and emulsifying wax (and maybe essential oils, depending on your local store.)  These products you can order online, I recommend G Baldwin & Co in the UK and Mountain Rose Herbs in the US.

9 tips to detox your beauty routine

makeup 298x300 9 tips to detox your beauty routineDo you want to detox your beauty routine? Reduce the amount of chemicals you put on your body?  Use greener products?

If you watched the Story of Cosmetics and want to clean up your act, here are 9 easy tips on how to green your beauty routine.

  1. Inventory what you actually use – Spend a few minutes on a product inventory.  What do you have? What do you actually use?  Rather than throwing out the unused products, maybe you can do a product swap with a friend.  Figure out what your essentials are, and then…
  2. Multitask – Lots of times one product can fill multiple needs.  Do you need separate moisturizer for body, feet and hands?  Or separate face, neck and eye creams?  How about using hair conditioner as shaving cream?  Or using some lipstick as a cheek color?
  3. Buy less stuff – Buying fewer products helps the environment (less packaging, shipping, chemical production), lessens your chemical exposure, and saves money.
  4. Go fragrance free – Fragrance in products is a labeling loophole that allows companies to include chemical compounds not listed in the ingredients!  If you want to lighten your chemical load, go fragrance-free in all of your products (except those made with natural essential oils, or ones you make yourself!)
  5. Learn which ingredients to avoid – Check out the Environmental Working Group’s tips to learn which ingredients to avoid.
  6. Swap your antiperspirant – You can read at length on the internet about whether antiperspirants are safe to use.  Since antiperspirants block the sweat glands, they might cause toxins to build up under the arms,  rather than sweating them out.  No one knows yet, but to be safe, swap your pore-blocking antiperspirant for a natural deodorant like The Crystal.
  7. Replace with a greener alternative – No need to throw out all of your existing products … just use them up, and then replace them with a greener alternative.
  8. Get crafty – Try making some products yourself.  Use honey as a face mask.  Make some toothpaste.  Or body lotion.  There are lots of recipes online.
  9. Skip the daily shampoo – Shampoo less often – you’ll use less product, save money, and probably improve your hair’s condition.  No need for texturizing hair products when you have a bit of natural texture!

How are you greening your beauty routine? Let us know in the comments.

How to make a lavender bath bomb

1kapow 300x261 How to make a lavender bath bombWhy use boring bubble bath when you can have a fizzy scent explosion in your tub?

Bath bombs have become quite popular recently as an alternative to bubble bath.  Bath bombs are like a bath cube, but much bigger and fizzier.  They can be in lots of different shapes, and either contain just fragrance, or fragrance and add-ins like shea butter, cocoa butter, herbs or even glitter!

The fabulous store Lush sells tons of variations of bath bomb.  But they’re easy to make at home for yourself or as gifts.

This recipe was my first attempt at making a bath bomb, and I was really happy with the results.  I’ll definitely be making more of these (and inventing my own scent combos) in the future!

My only criticism was that the little bits of lavender got ALL over the tub afterwards.  I actually put a strainer in the bottom of the tub so they wouldn’t clog the drain.  Just something to be aware of.  The essential oils provided all of the scent, so I think the flower are mainly for appearance.  I will probably leave them out next time!

Lavender Bath Bomb

(makes 1)

Adapted from Grow Your Own Drugs by James Wong

1 tsp. dried lavender flowers

3 TB baking soda (sodium bicarbonate)

1 TB. citric acid (you can buy this in a pharmacy)

1 tsp. olive oil

10 drops lavender essential oil

A mould of some kind (I used a silicon cupcake mould, but you could use a cookie cutter, muffin tin, anything!)

How to: First, make sure your bowl and spoon are completely dry. If you get any water in this mix, it will start fizzing. Mix everything in a bowl, until the mixture is damp and powdery.

DSC03083 300x225 How to make a lavender bath bomb

Press the mixture firmly into your mould.

DSC03084 300x225 How to make a lavender bath bomb

Let it sit for several hours to try out.  Overnight is even better.  Mine started to get little bubbles on the top as it dried.

DSC03112 300x225 How to make a lavender bath bomb

Turn out of mould, wrap in foil or plastic, and store in a dry location until ready to use.

DSC03113 300x225 How to make a lavender bath bomb

To use: Run a bath.  Once the bath is ready, drop in the bath bomb and enjoy the fizzy show!

Have you made a bath bomb?  What scents did you include? Let us know!

Beauty detox: my current natural beauty routine

clive vivaudou hearst oct23 209x300 Beauty detox: my current natural beauty routineWe’re a few weeks into the Beauty Detox, and I wanted to give you an update on my current beauty routine.   If you remember, I did a product inventory and found my 28 frequently used products.  Here’s the original list, and what natural substitutions I’m using at the moment.  I’m not totally happy with all of these products yet so this list will change during the year.  Overall, I’m finding them just as easy to use as the store-bought kind – they just require a bit of work up front to make!

  1. Face cleanser – I made a cleansing cream, recipe to come soon.
  2. Face scrub – almond oatmeal cleansing grains from Rosemary Gladstar’s book
  3. Face moisturizer – using a lightweight sage and yarrow moisturizer from the Natural Beauty Book
  4. Acne spot treatment – using teatree or lavender oil
  5. Facial mask – using honey as a face mask at the moment
  6. shampoo – again a recipe from Rosemary Gladstar’s book, recipe coming soon.
  7. conditioner – sage vinegar! This is great, I’ll write about it soon.
  8. anti-frizz hair serum – don’t need it yet!
  9. Sea salt texture hair spray – don’t need it, my hair definitely has more texture with these natural products
  10. dry shampoo – have tried sprinkling arrow root powder on my roots a couple of times … has potential.
  11. shaving cream – using baby oil
  12. shower gel – using Dr. Bronners castille soap
  13. body moisturizer – I’m making body cream like this one! More recipes to come soon.
  14. ultra rich body cream – not yet
  15. hand cream – not yet
  16. body scrub – using coffee scrub like this, and a sugar scrub I made, recipe to come soon.
  17. perfume – none yet
  18. deodorant – using the natural crystal deodorant
  19. toothpaste – using sage tooth powder
  20. mouthwash – none yet
  21. nail polish – just leaving the existing polish on my toes for the moment until I find an alternative
  22. nail polish remover – none yet
  23. makeup (foundation, concealer, powder, blush, bronzer, eye shadow, mascara, eyeliner, lip gloss) – currently only using Bare Minerals foundation and ‘warmth’ powder.
  24. astringent/toner – rosewater or Queen of Hungary water
  25. self tanner – none yet
  26. night time face treatment – made a light facial oil with grapeseed oil and essential oils, recipe to come soon
  27. hair color/dye – none yet, will try henna soon!
  28. hand sanitizer (does this count?!) – none yet, will find a recipe for this though!

Have better alternatives for what I’m using above? Have you tried any of them yourself? Let us know in the comments!

How do you know what ingredients to avoid?

LOC chemwarfare flickr 240x300 How do you know what ingredients to avoid?If you want to lighten the chemical load of your beauty routine, how do you know which ingredients to avoid?

First, check out the Environmental Working Group’s Skin Deep Database.  You can look up any of your existing products to see their rank on the toxicity scale (0-10, 10 being most toxic).  While they don’t state which products to avoid, you can us the information to set your own threshold.   During this beauty detox I won’t use anything higher than a 5 (and hopefully won’t have to use many purchased products at all, if I can help it!).   My biggest surprise was that my favorite NARS blush scored a 7, and contains BHA which is a known immune system toxin, possible carcinogen and has been banned in Europe.  And I used it daily for about 7 years.  Awesome!

Also check out their What Not to Buy list of the top 10 ingredients to avoid in your beauty products.  Did you know that some products still contain mercury and lead??  I thought those were removed years ago.  It’s interesting reading.

Want to learn more about what’s in our cosmetics?  Watch the Story of Cosmetics video.  If you only do one thing, watch this video!

One of the most eye-opening points for me is that while chemicals in beauty products are regulated, we are getting exposure from the chemicals in multiple products at the same time.  So while your shampoo might have safe levels of a chemical, what happens when you also use conditioner, perfume, moisturizer and toothpaste with the same chemical in it??  Your exposure to that chemical just increased.  But the effects?  We just don’t know.

Although this project started as a way to save some money and make homemade beauty products, I’m starting to realize it’s a much more important issue that affects everyone.

If you look up any of your products in the Skin Deep database and have any surprises, let us know in the comments!

Queen of Hungary Skin Toner

QueenOfGreece flickr 217x300 Queen of Hungary Skin TonerI’m struggling a bit with my skincare routine, and it’s starting to show in my face.  I’m especially missing my concealer to cover the dark circles and spots.  And the spots are abounding.  I attribute this to the fact that my skin is a product testing ground at the moment.  Every few days I’m trying a different homemade cleanser or moisturizer, and it’s not going well.

My new plan will be to pick a couple of homemade products, and try them for several weeks at a time.  After all, I do have a whole year to experiment.

So, my first ‘stick to it product’ is going to be a homemade toner or astringent.  We’re having warm summer weather here in England, and I really need a decongesting product to keep away the greasies.

This recipe for Queen of Hungary water has intrigued me for awhile.  I found this version in my favorite recipe book by Rosemary Gladstar.  Queen of Hungary water is an old gypsy remedy supposedly invented by the Queen of Hungary (and no, that is not her in the picture, that’s the Queen of Greece, but it was a good image!)  There are many variations including different herbs in a base of either strong alcohol or vinegar.  The recipe I used makes an herbal vinegar, and then dilutes it with a combination of rose water and witch hazel.

The finished product can be used as a facial toner or astringent, but was traditionally used as a cure-all.  According to Nicholas Culpepper, a famous English herbalist:

“The water (containing an infusion of spirits) is admirable cure-all remedy of all kinds of cold and humidity-induced head ailments, apoplexies, epilepsies, dizziness, lethargy, crippleness, nerves diseases, rheumatism, flaws, spasms, loss of memory, coma, drowsiness, deafness, ear buzzing, derangement of vision, blood coagulation, mood-induced headaches. Relieves toothache, useful for stomach cramps, pleuritis, lack of appetite, indigestion, obstruction of the liver, obstruction of the spleen, intestinal obstruction and contraction of the uterus… There are not many remedies producing that many good effects.”

Brilliant! Sounds like it will fix all of my ills.  Ok, maybe not, but it should be a refreshing, soothing skin daily skin toner that just might clear up my skin too.

Queen of Hungary Water

Adapted from Rosemary Gladstar’s Herbal Recipes for Vibrant Health

Herb Mix: (use whatever you have on hand, I used these below.  I used dried herbs for everything except the sage and rosemary, since I have lots of that in my garden).

6TB. Lemon Balm

4 TB Chamomile

4 TB Roses

3 TB Calendula/Marigold

1 TB Lemon zest

1 TB dried rosemary (or 2 TB fresh)

1 TB dried sage (or 2 TB fresh)

Liquid

Organic cider vinegar

Rose Water and/or Witch Hazel

Essential oil of lavender or rose (optional

Method:

Place herbs in jar.  Cover with vinegar until completely submerged.  Leave in a sunny spot for 2-3 weeks.

DSC02984 300x225 Queen of Hungary Skin TonerDSC02987 300x225 Queen of Hungary Skin Toner

Strain out the herbs (you want to get all the bits out – this helps the product keep longer).  To each cup of herbal vinegar, add 1c. total extra liquid (I used 1/2 c. rose water and 1/2c. witch hazel).  Add several drops of essential oil, if using.  Put into clean, pretty bottle.   Rosemary Gladstar says this will keep indefinitely and does not need to be refrigerated.

DSC03077 300x225 Queen of Hungary Skin TonerHow does it smell? Really nice and herby…but slightly vinegary.  I can see how it would make a nice body splash if you made it with vodka instead of vinegar.  I’ve used it as a toner for a couple of days and it feels refreshing and cleansing on my skin.  Will report back after a few weeks of use!

Have you tried any homemade beauty products yourself? Let us know how it went in the comments.

No toothpaste for one year… really?

squibb toothpowder No toothpaste for one year… really?Toothpowder. What a vintage word and concept.  It sounds like a product straight out of an apothecary.  A stained old box that you’d see on a shelf in a reenacted historic home.  But now it lives in my bathroom!

During this year of detoxing my beauty routine, toothpaste was one of my top priorities to recreate.

The array of tooth care products in the drugstore today is overwhelming: whitening, tartar control, extra-long breath freshening, sensitive teeth, with flouride or flouride-free, in different sized and shaped tubes, with a variety of flavors.  Do we really need all that to take care of our teeth?

As soon as I started experimenting with homemade toothpaste, my boyfriend admitted that he was a bit concerned about it.  While I won’t seriously hurt myself experimenting with shampoo and moisturizer, he was worried that I might get serious tooth damage if I really go an entire year without commercial toothpaste.

So I did some research.

According to wikipedia, toothpaste doesn’t clean your teeth – the friction of the toothbrush does.  And tooth pastes and powders weren’t common until the 19th century.   So I think as long as I do a thorough brushing, I should be fine with my homemade toothpaste.  Or if not, you’ll definitely hear about it!

Attempt #1: Baking Soda

The first thing I tried was plain baking soda – just dip your toothbrush in the baking soda and brush.  My teeth felt really smooth afterwards, but the taste was pretty bad.

Attempt #2: Sage Toothpowder

This time, I made a toothpowder from crushed dried sage leaves and baking soda.  Sage is antibacterial, breath-freshing and is supposed to whiten your teeth.  The major problem with this attempt is that I mixed the sage and baking soda together first, and then tried to grind them in a mortar-and-pestle.  As a result, the sage pieces were still too big (it’s hard to grind baking soda since it’s powdery), so I ended up with green bits in my teeth.  Not what I was looking for in a toothpaste!  I did like the taste of the sage, so I’ll keep working on this recipe.

DSC02981 300x225 No toothpaste for one year… really?

Attempt #3: Sage Toothpowder v2

This time I ground up the sage separately first, then mixed with some baking soda – much better!  I carried some of this with me on a recent weekend trip and it worked well, and is easy to carry in a small container.  There are still some bits, but they’re small and rinse away easily.  I’ll probably continue to tweak this recipe over the year!

DSC03059 300x225 No toothpaste for one year… really?

The sage flavor is nice, but I’m still missing the ‘minty fresh’ feeling – so next up is to experiment with some peppermint essential oil and actually making a toothpaste!

The four basic products I can’t live without

3833613752 573cacfbe5 hartman045 179x300 The four basic products I can’t live withoutThe beauty detox has officially begun.

I’ve cleaned out my cabinets and shelves.  Offending beauty products are in the basement for safe keeping until next year.

I’m going to start with just the basics, and I plan to have a full, indulgent beauty routine reestablished by the end of the year – sans chemicals.  At least I hope so.  Because a year of just using soap, baking soda and vinegar makes me really depressed!

The four products I can’t live without

Keep in mind, I’m a product addict so this stripped down routine will not last long … but these are the very basics I need to get going!

  1. Cleanser – Castile soap is an olive oil based soap about as pure as you can get.  I bought a bottle of Dr. Bronner’s rose scented soap which can be used for body, face, hands, hair — just about everything!
  2. Moisturizer – I’m starting with some grapeseed oil mixed with some essential oils.  I’ve been doing this as a nighttime facial oil for awhile, and will just expand it to body use.  But making some real body cream is one of my top priorities!
  3. Deodorant – Fortunately I switched to this crystal deodorant a few months back, so I’ll just continue using that.
  4. Toothpaste – For lack of anything else, I know I can use baking soda as a tooth powder.  Definitely need to improve this one ASAP though, because baking soda is not very tasty.

This feels very back-to-basics to me and not very vintage-beauty-creative-fabulous!  I think I’ll last with this routine for a few days, max.  I am nervous about it, really.  I am however 100% sure that this sparse ‘essentials’ routine will motivate me to make some products, and fast.

Beauty Detox Step 1: Product Inventory

3310943391 b168215791 300x234 Beauty Detox Step 1: Product Inventory28 types of products. I hesitate to admit this number, it’s slightly embarrassing.  And that’s not even the number of products I actually own … that number is far higher (115 to be exact!)… 28 is just the type of products that I use on a regular basis, that I’ll have to recreate during my Beauty Detox, or go without.

I recently announced my year-long Beauty Detox.  The first step is an inventory of everything I currently own and use.  Partially to understand the scope of my addiction, but also to put these products out of sight for the next year (they’re going in a box in the basement.)   It would be way too easy to fall off the natural-beauty wagon in a moment of (bad hair) desperation.

Amanda’s beauty product inventory – July 2010

  1. Face cleanser
  2. Face scrub
  3. Face moisturizer (with and without sunscreen)
  4. Acne spot treatment
  5. Facial mask
  6. shampoo
  7. conditioner
  8. anti-frizz hair serum
  9. Sea salt texture hair spray
  10. dry shampoo
  11. shaving cream
  12. shower gel
  13. body moisturizer
  14. ultra rich body cream
  15. hand cream
  16. body scrub
  17. perfume
  18. deodorant
  19. toothpaste
  20. mouthwash
  21. nail polish
  22. nail polish remover
  23. makeup (foundation, concealer, powder, blush, bronzer, eye shadow, mascara, eyeliner, lip gloss)
  24. astringent/toner
  25. self tanner
  26. night time face treatment
  27. hair color/dye
  28. hand sanitizer (does this count?!)

When I actually tot up my number of products, it’s 115, including 10 hair products, 24 body products, 6 kind of perfume, and 52 pieces of makeup (not including my 48 shade Sephora pallet).

DSC02978 300x225 Beauty Detox Step 1: Product Inventory

This number is staggering to me.  I really had no idea of the scope of my beauty product habit.   And I just remembered I forgot to include my nail polishes… ack.

I am starting to realize that this Beauty Detox is going to help my wallet significantly as well.

The lesson from this clean out?  That my beauty habit has gotten a bit out of control.  And that these 28 types of products are the ones I need to find natural alternatives for, or live without, in the next 12 months.

What’s your beauty product number?? Let us know in the comments.

My Year of Beauty Detox

3841385770 051dfe6c94 229x300 My Year of Beauty DetoxI’m about to start a detox program, and I’m freaking out a bit.

Recently I’ve been thinking about the amount of chemicals and manufactured products I put on and in my body. There’s only so much I can do about environmental chemicals since I live in London, but I can control what I choose to eat, drink, smear, scrub, smooth and otherwise put on myself.

So, this weekend I started thinking about doing a year long chemical detox of my beauty routine.

Lip gloss, body scrub, face masks, minty foot cream, nail polish, spa nights – if it’s beauty-related, I love it!  It started with my first hand-me-down lipstick at age 9, and now takes up several shelves in my bathroom and bedroom.   I can’t even begin to calculate the amount of money I’ve spent on beauty products over my lifetime.

My year long beauty detox means that I need to first eliminate all ‘chemicals’ from my beauty routine – and try to find natural alternatives.  To be honest, I don’t know where to draw the line with defining ‘chemicals’, that’s something I’ll have to figure out as I go.

I will try to make every product I use myself – based on traditional recipes where possible, and using high-quality ingredients.  I’m also hoping I’ll save a lot of money, even with using really nice ingredients.  When I can’t make a product, I’ll try to find the most natural (but still effective) alternative available to buy.

So why am I freaking out?  I don’t want to become a hippy/crunchy/smelly/weird-looking person.  My challenge for this year is to detox my beauty routine without it being noticeable to people on the street.  I need to look, smell and feel normal.  I need to fit into regular society.  It’s a beauty detox for everywoman.

Also, I admit I’m freaking out because I won’t be able to use my favorite perfume!  Or nail polish.  Or eyeliner!  I love eye makeup and have a lot of it.  The smoky-eye-pale-lip combination is my best friend.   I can only hope there are good natural alternatives…